Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Photo Gallery: Trucking & Camping Through Kenya & Tanzania

 
In this series of posts, under the heading "Picture Portal", I let the photos do most of the talking. Sure, I'll throw in some brief anecdotes about memorable trip highlights, for those who are so compelled to read something. But let the photos be your portal to the experience. Why present it this way? Sometimes pictures convey far more than text, granting the reader free range for interpretation and appreciation without being bombarded by my two cents (isn't there a saying out there about pictures and a thousand words?). Or maybe the real reason is that so much was happening during the adventure that I (shamefully) couldn't find the time to write. Whichever reason appeals to you, enjoy the visual journey.


Cruising the Swahili Coast: An Overlanding Adventure from Kenya to Zanzibar
Date: 29 May 2010
Location: International House Cafe, UC Berkeley

Despite 22 years of foreign excursions, sub-Saharan Africa has always remained rather elusive, probably on account of the incurred expenses. Indeed, it is blatantly ironic that the poorest continent on the planet would prove to be one of the most expensive places to travel to. Nevertheless, such a milestone in my life as graduating from Cal called for a trip of greater extravagance. But you won’t find this kid staying in 5-star hotels. Though still heavy on the pocketbook, my idea of extravagance takes the form of three weeks camping in the bush – setting up a tent under a lone acacia tree, cooking by an open fire, and traversing the East African savanna via truck. Extravagance means going to the pharmacy and stocking up on expensive malaria, typhoid, and yellow fever medications. Extravagance means withdrawing $3k in unblemished, post-2002 bills for communal groceries, camp supplies, and wild game park permits. Extravagance means having to pull the water purifier, mosquito nets, and sleeping bags from that box in the closet. And while this trip will be nothing short of physically taxing on the body, I firmly believe that experiencing Africa in the raw could take no other form but that of getting down and dirty! Traveling with the Absolute Africa crew, this will be my first "overlanding" trip, a form of budget travel that has gradually been gaining more popularity for adventure-seekers of my age bracket. It essentially consists of catching a massive truck, travelers above deck and  supplies below, then setting forth on a long road trip, camping along the way and being assigned work duties. Hopefully, I will not only have an amazing experience on this terrestrial "pirate ship", but meet some awesome new "shipmates" as well!

The Crew & Camp Life

The original crew, shortly after leaving Nairobi. Others would eventually hop on and off the truck along the way, but these guys started and finished the road trip together. Elton (middle) was our Zimbabwean guide.
Our truck, "Shaggy". Shaggy comes with an upper deck for passengers and lower compartments for supplies and gear
Goodluck, the sweet head cook
Isaac, the comical truck driver


We camped in many national parks and campsites along the way from Kenya down to Tanzania (Nakuru National Park)
Pitching our tents out in the bush of the African savanna...
... or on tropical beaches of the beautiful Swahili Coast
Evenings by the fire were magical, the sounds of growls and rustling complimenting the many glowing eyes peeping out of the surrounding blackness
Everyone was assigned a daily camp duty, which rotated via a roster
Cooking over coal, using fresh ingredients
Some duties involved helping with cooking


Or sometimes cooking with propane, when available
Dinners always tasted great by the fire

Other duties included dish-washing (likely the least popular). Everyone was expected to contribute to the "community"
Sometimes the truck needed to be cleaned... or decorated for birthdays
And when we weren't roughing it in the bush, we knew how to kick back in some of the chillest bars south of the Sahara
Like this Chameleon lounge out on a cattle ranch in Central Kenya

Five things I learned while camping and trucking through East Africa: 
  1. Never cross paths with an angry elephant.
    • In the Serengeti, my father insisted on the Land Cruiser making a closer approach. As babies were present, the mother began to loudly trumpet, flaring her ears outward in a mock-charge. Getting closer, the elephant grabbed dust and grass with its trunk, flinging it violently into the air. It wasn't until it took several massive stomps forward that we quickly had to put the vehicle in reverse and get out, lest our vehicle be knocked right off its wheels.
  2. Do not pet the lion two feet from your jeep window, despite the temptation. 
    • In Ngorongoro, a fully-maned male lion walked alongside our vehicle within reaching distance. I was so consumed with taking photos, I didn't even realized that my window was fully rolled down.
  3. Opening a package of cookies in baboon territory is a huge mistake.
    • Judd's wife and Anneke can sure testify that opening any food in the bush, even for just a second, can result in a massive hairy blob pouncing onto you and disappearing with your snack in a flash.
  4. Warthogs steal bananas, bar soap, and apparently like beer. 
    • Waking up in the middle of the night to your entire tent chaotically shaking and something trying to tear its way into it is one thing. Realizing the next morning you have no soap to wash with and no breakfast to eat is another.
  5. The answer to everything is T.I.A. [This is Africa]
    • Land Cruiser broke down? T.I.A... Locals stole your stuff? T.I.A... Animals stole your stuff? T.I.A, man...

 The Colors of East African Landscapes

A cattle ranch in central Kenya
Another overlanding crew makes their way around flamingos on Lake Nakuru, Kenya
Early morning in Nakuru National Park, Kenya
Rolling mist over the Nakuru savanna
Boatmen wait to take visitors hippo watching on Lake Naivasha, Kenya
A lion crosses a vast expanse of grassland, Masai Mara National Park, Kenya
View over Lake Manyara, Tanzania

From the top of the ridge, a view of the vast interior of Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania
Light pierces through the rain clouds over Ngorongoro
Clouds rolling over the "lip" of the crater, which has in itself become an isolated ecosystem
A dusty road leads from Ngorongoro Crater to the gateway of the Serengeti
Kopje rock outcroppings in the flat Serengeti, fall-out from the prehistoric eruption that created Ngorongoro
Ballooning over the Serengeti
Iconic acacia trees of the dry savanna ecosystem
Dusk over the Serengeti

Sunset overlooking Nungwi Beach, Zanzibar
Quaint restaurants and bungalows line Nungwi Beach
Wooden dhows along the Zanzibarian coast


 Safari: The King of Road Trips

Some safaris can be taken in a deluxe, private Land Cruiser
Most safaris will go down in whatever Land Cruisers happen to be lying around
If you're really lucky, your safari might be conducted in a vintage Land Cruiser
Regardless of which one you get, they are all victims to flats here in Africa


 The Diversity of East African Wildlife

Vervet monkeys
A tiny chameleon spotted at night



Grey Crowned Cranes
Hyena chilling on the roadside
Ostriches are fairly idiotic birds
The mighty African elephant
Whole herds of elephants grazing in the Mara
An elephant gets angry after my father insists on getting too close
Male antelopes combat
Pink flamingos
Zebras rest their heads on each other for comfort as well as for defense measures
One of many colorful birds
A Cape buffalo nomming away
A Masai giraffe in the sunset
A pair of cheetahs lounging in the noon sun






















A Rothschild's giraffe
The exceptionally elusive leopard. This one was in a tree hanging over our truck and, thankfully, it didn't pounce
Endangered white rhino mother and calf
A rarely seen, endangered black rhino
A herd of topis
A male lion passes within arms length of our Land Cruiser and I forget to roll up my window
They're so cute when they're not trying to kill you
Lions can apparently climb trees as well
Elephants and hippos sharing a watering hole
The virtual garden of Eden that is the Serengeti, as wildebeests and zebras embark on the Great Migration
A cheetah looks out over the grassland for potential prey
Nakuru National Park. Central Kenya. 11:30pm.

The night was dark, a dying fire softly glowed under a sea of stars. We had all just bundled ourselves up in our tents and were ready to turn in for the night. Our guide continued to sit out by the fire, chatting quietly some of his other guide friends. Suddenly, some baboons in a nearby tree became anxious, chattering away and jumping in the branches.

"Gruuaah!"

Elton, our guide, called out in an excited whisper.

"Ya hear that, guys?! That's a lion!"

Silence. Then louder.

"Gruuuuaaah!!"

"It's chasing something. Don't worry, broo... Lions rarely approach camps"

"GRUUUAAAAH!!

"Fuck, broo! Run to the truck! Run to the truck!!!"

I was still in my tent...under the covers...


  The Faces, Foods & Sights of East Africa


Shanty towns on the edge of Nairobi, Kenya
The former plantation house of world-renowned, early 20th century Danish author, Karen Blixen
Bananas, coffee, and camel milk - Kenyan specialties
Tiny dried fish in a rural Tanzanian market near Arusha
Four varieties of bananas and other sub-tropical fruits
Going to the market with the latest harvest
On a local bus, the shopping comes to you
Kenyan students flee from a baboon on a rampage
Tanzanian school girls visit us as we fix our flat tire
Men of the Maasai tribe perform an adumu, or competitive jumping dance for initiated warriors
A Maasai man with traditional headdress
A Maasai women in fine beaded jewelry







Trying to start a fire using a stick, a knife, and grass kindling
Fire-making close up
Taken from the dark interior of a Maasai dwelling












The traditional low-roofed, mud and cow dung dwellings of the Maasai
The Nairobi Giraffe Center is the perfect place to get kissed
How can one deny such a face?
Or even this face?



A baby elephant plays with a soccer ball at the Nairobi Elephant Orphanage, just in time for World Cup 2010
The Arusha Cultural Heritage Center, in front of Mt. Meru
Crab fishermen off the coast of Zanzibar
Approaching Old Stonetown, on the island of Zanzibar
Alley life in Stonetown
Crowding around a television set in an alley to watch a World Cup match
A smorgasbord of exotic grilled delights at the Stonetown night food market
Fishing boats in Dar Es Salam, Tanzania
A tribal herder with his cattle
Maasai on mobile. Karibu to the 21st century!




I met a friendly fellow once out walking about at Lake Naivasha, Kenya. He seemed a bit off, slightly eccentric, but was otherwise social and welcoming. He even offered to show us around the lake, to which we politely declined. Walking towards the peaceful waters the next day, we were perplexed to see a hubbub of police trucks swarming the docks. Our light-hearted local greeted us as usual, but this time while handcuffed and leading armed guards. Confused, we'd later learn from a local newspaper that our cheery friend was actually a deranged serial killer, notorious for having kidnapped and murdering a number of local children out of ritualistic purposes. Having been caught, he was apparently leading local officials around the lake to the marshy graves where two ill-fated youths were stashed.

Moral of the story: sometimes unlicensed guides aren't the most cost-effective.

[Here's the link to the Kenyan news broadcast: The Naivasha Serial Killer]